Our trip to Dublin was first class. The tranportation system is efficient and comfortable. If you pre-book, as we did, an electronic display of your name appears above your seat. In case you are wondering if the rails are used by natives or foreign visitors, our fellow passageners in our section were Fionia Murphy, Donal O'Donovan, Lorna McCan and Brian O'Donahue. The OAP's (Old Age Pensioners--so much for politically correct) may ride the rails and buses for free anywhere in the country. By the time we exited the train at Heusteon we knew we were in Dublin. Guinness distillary was to our left and the first Q line was to our right. We Qed for tickets to the Lucas (lewis) the new high-speed rail system above ground for in-town travelling. Everything was easy . Dublin boasts about 1 million people. I wonder why it doesn't tilt into the Dublin Bay since the country only has 4 million people.
We reached our nephew Brian's house in Reheny in good fashion. We walked from the train and noticed, wider roads, sidewalks and larger homes built closer together. Brian and Dierdre have a lovely home with a backyard and a cul-de-sac road. Perfect for their two young sons, Eli and Harry. Their children are so cute and well-mannered. Only photos can convey the red-haired 41/2 year old Harry and 7 year old Eli. Eli wears a uniform to school, one for PE days and another for the other days of the week. They can walk to everything, including school, shopping, a huge park--St. Ann's and a massive beach on Dublin Bay. It is a terrific setting.
Dierdre came home from work and it looked like she worked on the runway. Her jacket had more high fashion details than my entire wardrobe for my entire life. She is a stunning and smart woman who runs an international business.
It was raining on our second day and so Brian took Harry, and us to Newgrange. It is a neolithic monument that is older than the pyrmids. The experience bordered on the religious. We had a wonderful time. Then we ate lunch at the Abby Tavern in Howth. A roaring fire, stone walls, old weathered wood table and chairs. And a wonderful meal of seafood chowder and mussells. Most of the fish used in Ireland comes from Howth. We enjoyed that a lot. We ate dinner at an Italian restaurant in Raheney--very good. We also visited Dierdre's mother. We packed in a lot of visiting in the days we were there.
More speaking Irish--In dublin everything is GRAND and people are lovely. Dierdre has a lovely girl for our Micheal and wants him to come and stay for a while so he can see if this is the girl for him.
Back in town this morning and loading up on food for the prediction of heavy rains for the net two days. On our way into town we say a horse an rider in full gallop on the Ventry Beach. With the wild sea producing waves at high tide, it was a pleasure to view.
Lois and Bill back in Dingle
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Lazy Weekend
The weather continues to delight--high 60s again today. Bill is recovering from his asthma attack and cold.
We will get the paper and stay close to home today. The Irish Times can keep you busy the entire day. It is loaded with long stories reminiscent of the days before television news. It is also a cumbersome paper. It is very difficult to hold the paper with two hands unless you fold it into fourths. But it has wonderfully written news and stories.
We are leaving for Dublin in the morning on the 7:15 a.m. bus to Tralee and then on to Dublin by train. Looking forward to seeing our nephew and his wife,
Joan Garvey told me today that the stone floor on the porch is from the Cliffs of Moher. Thought that was interesting. Excuse me, Lovely.
Lois and Bill on the Dingle
We will get the paper and stay close to home today. The Irish Times can keep you busy the entire day. It is loaded with long stories reminiscent of the days before television news. It is also a cumbersome paper. It is very difficult to hold the paper with two hands unless you fold it into fourths. But it has wonderfully written news and stories.
We are leaving for Dublin in the morning on the 7:15 a.m. bus to Tralee and then on to Dublin by train. Looking forward to seeing our nephew and his wife,
Joan Garvey told me today that the stone floor on the porch is from the Cliffs of Moher. Thought that was interesting. Excuse me, Lovely.
Lois and Bill on the Dingle
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Speaking Irish
The Dingle Peninsula is one of the strongest Irish speaking areas in the country. Bill is now a fluid reader of signs in Gaelic. He now recognizes An Daingean as Dingle Town. Good thing too. Once our GPS mis directed us and Bill got us back on track with his reading ability.
When entering shops, pubs, or other service locations it is common to hear Gaelic spoken. In the short time we are here we will never learn enough to understand or converse. We have learned some examples of Irish non-gaelic speech however.
Rain for example can be called patches of drizzle, a bit more cloud, damp, patches of fog, or even an odd spot of drizzle. I'm sure there are plenty more that we haven't heard.
The word Lovely is used extensively to comment on whatever is said. "We just arrived from Shannon." answer "Lovely" "Could I look at that scarf on the top shelf?" " Lovely: It does make me feel good hearing that all day so I will try to incorporate it into my speech at home.
When greeting a friend, we have noticed that people do not say "How are you?" Instead they say, "How have you been keepin'?"
The Irish can also turn any statement into a question with one word--THEN. examples:
Bill says"I will have a pint of Guinness, please." Tony, our usual bartender, You'll have a pint of Guinness, then?"
Lois "We are going to Dublin on Monday."
Ann "You be going to Dublin on Monday then?"
The cadence and brogue make the speaking flow and almost seems like singing. We are really enjoying our conversations in Irish. Lovely.
When entering shops, pubs, or other service locations it is common to hear Gaelic spoken. In the short time we are here we will never learn enough to understand or converse. We have learned some examples of Irish non-gaelic speech however.
Rain for example can be called patches of drizzle, a bit more cloud, damp, patches of fog, or even an odd spot of drizzle. I'm sure there are plenty more that we haven't heard.
The word Lovely is used extensively to comment on whatever is said. "We just arrived from Shannon." answer "Lovely" "Could I look at that scarf on the top shelf?" " Lovely: It does make me feel good hearing that all day so I will try to incorporate it into my speech at home.
When greeting a friend, we have noticed that people do not say "How are you?" Instead they say, "How have you been keepin'?"
The Irish can also turn any statement into a question with one word--THEN. examples:
Bill says"I will have a pint of Guinness, please." Tony, our usual bartender, You'll have a pint of Guinness, then?"
Lois "We are going to Dublin on Monday."
Ann "You be going to Dublin on Monday then?"
The cadence and brogue make the speaking flow and almost seems like singing. We are really enjoying our conversations in Irish. Lovely.
Friday, March 25, 2011
Catch up Day
The weather has been so beautiful that we want to be out all the time. 65 to 70 degrees for the last 3 days. Everyone is telling us it is very unusual. Pat and I have done a little shopping in Dingle and then we discovered a treasure. Has anyone ever heard of Harry Clarke stained glass windows? Run do not walk to your nearest library and get a book showing his work which now belongs to the Irish nation. It is truly amazing and so different,. It is a religious experience to go into the convent house at St. Mary's Church in Dingle abd walk into the chapel. It is a small chapel with Spanish Oak made into benches along the outer walls and Italian Marble for the altar. There are 6 stained glass windows depicting the major events in the new testament about Jesus. The baptism, little children come to me, sermon on the Mount, etc. When I asked the young guide who showed us the room how often he peeks in when no one is there, he said as often as I can. I think anyone would want to do that. I will go back with Bill before we leave.
We took a day trip to Killarney which is the site of the national park. There are hundreds of stately B&bs and homes in the area. Very nice but not the charm of Dingle. We toured the Muckross estate, late 19th century furnishings. It was used as a hunting lodge and displays many dozens of red deerskulls with attached antlers. Each hunter had his name, weight of annimal and date carved on the skull. They took their hunting seriously. Louise Heuber(?) one of the owners was a wonderful watercolorist. Many of her pieces are in the British Museum they said. And many are in this house. I thought they were wonderful depicting the surrounding lakes and forest. Pat and I went exploring the grounds before the guided tour and mentioned this during the presentation when asked. We said we really liked the rock garden and were immediately scolded for going to the Rockery--that is for young people we were lucky we diidn't fall climbing up the steps. No one over 20 should do that climb--we informed her that we felt like we were 20. Mary McCarthy was our guide and Pat told her we drink at her family's pub almost every night. Mary liked that and didn't yell at us again. However, we drink at Murphy's not McCarthy's. Oh well, we feel 20 but our minds have aged.
Pat could not resist asking if we wanted to go on a jaunty ride around the gardens and down to the waterfall. Of course we all said yes and after our tour of the house we punished the horse--Suzy. Our driver Robert got in the cart first, then me, Pat, Bill and Monte. As we all sat down Suzy was almost lifted off the ground,
Robert immediately made some adjustments and we were off for an hours ride, We needed to walk up to the falls, and found the rocks and trees along the path were completly covered in moss,. Not like our moss, it was dry and grew on all sides of the tree and limbs.
We got some great photo ops but Robert would only stop at the preferred favoriate stops that the horse knew. It was fun. The hour drive back to Dingle was just right-- Dinnertime and we were hungry. We ate at John Benny's and everyone had a good meal. The area where we were sitting was filled and we all started talking and met a newly married couple from Adilade Australia -if I could only spell. They were a retired couple and then a 6 month married couple from R.I. and two women from Seattle and another family of 3 celebrating mom's 70th birthday. We think it was her son and daughter or her son-in-law and daughter--doesn't matter. Then us. We stayed until the music started at 10 and left. On the way to the car we heard the local pipe band practicing outside. Doesn't that seem late?
The day before leaving, the Meyers wanted to go over Conner Pass. Remember that Mike and Rob? It was a wonderful day with a lot of photo ops. I had never been to Brandon's Point--closest area to Canada on this Penisula--Newfoundland to be exact. It was a very narrow road with sheep to spare and great vistas. And it was also the most heavily traveled. We could not believe all of the cars. There was a couple from the Netherlands and they did not speak English and of couse we could not communicate in their native language so sign language it was. Not too bad if I do say so. We found, can you believe, Murphy's Bar on our way back. Mr. Murphy used to work in Boston and his son lives there now. When Murphy SR.'s father died, he moved back to keep the family business going. The establishment and home are made of such old brick that it looks like stone from the weathering. Been in business since mid 1800's. The view was incredible. The business mostly confinded to summer visitors. The connor pass takes hardy travelers only since some portions are only single car width and it is difficult to see what cars may be coming the other way, Castle Gregory was the next town we visited, another summer tourist area. Nothing was open at all except one pub that did not sell food.
Last meal, thanks Monte and Pat, was at the Bemmer Hotel. More high class than some pubs. Wonderful lamb shank, reduced sauce and mash, pork chops and chicken were eaten in silence. It was good and we were hungry. Then we went to the opening of the new bar in town. We actually recognized the owners. When we walked in the couple from RI had the cat bird seat and they were the official photographers of the event. It is really easy to fit in in Dingle. Bill, unfortunately, had an asthma attack from the varnish and other newly finished bits at the pub. He had a horrible night. When Pat and I were walking around town earlier, we peeked in and thought it might be a HGTV show. Nothings was finished, at 4 but by 8 p.m. it was opened and filled. I suspect that some people are still there trying to release themselves from the newly varnished seats.
We left at 6 a.m. to take the Meyers to Shannon to catch their plane back to Pittsburgh. It was a great week--thanks for sharing our adventure, We got there with plenty of time, we dropped them off and had our breakfast before heading home to Dingle. Now naps will begin. We will have a lazy weekend as we are going to Dublin on Monday and must catch the 7:15 am bus to Tralee to get the train. The train was 22 Euros for both of us. What a bargain.
Pray that this fine spring weather continues.
We took a day trip to Killarney which is the site of the national park. There are hundreds of stately B&bs and homes in the area. Very nice but not the charm of Dingle. We toured the Muckross estate, late 19th century furnishings. It was used as a hunting lodge and displays many dozens of red deerskulls with attached antlers. Each hunter had his name, weight of annimal and date carved on the skull. They took their hunting seriously. Louise Heuber(?) one of the owners was a wonderful watercolorist. Many of her pieces are in the British Museum they said. And many are in this house. I thought they were wonderful depicting the surrounding lakes and forest. Pat and I went exploring the grounds before the guided tour and mentioned this during the presentation when asked. We said we really liked the rock garden and were immediately scolded for going to the Rockery--that is for young people we were lucky we diidn't fall climbing up the steps. No one over 20 should do that climb--we informed her that we felt like we were 20. Mary McCarthy was our guide and Pat told her we drink at her family's pub almost every night. Mary liked that and didn't yell at us again. However, we drink at Murphy's not McCarthy's. Oh well, we feel 20 but our minds have aged.
Pat could not resist asking if we wanted to go on a jaunty ride around the gardens and down to the waterfall. Of course we all said yes and after our tour of the house we punished the horse--Suzy. Our driver Robert got in the cart first, then me, Pat, Bill and Monte. As we all sat down Suzy was almost lifted off the ground,
Robert immediately made some adjustments and we were off for an hours ride, We needed to walk up to the falls, and found the rocks and trees along the path were completly covered in moss,. Not like our moss, it was dry and grew on all sides of the tree and limbs.
We got some great photo ops but Robert would only stop at the preferred favoriate stops that the horse knew. It was fun. The hour drive back to Dingle was just right-- Dinnertime and we were hungry. We ate at John Benny's and everyone had a good meal. The area where we were sitting was filled and we all started talking and met a newly married couple from Adilade Australia -if I could only spell. They were a retired couple and then a 6 month married couple from R.I. and two women from Seattle and another family of 3 celebrating mom's 70th birthday. We think it was her son and daughter or her son-in-law and daughter--doesn't matter. Then us. We stayed until the music started at 10 and left. On the way to the car we heard the local pipe band practicing outside. Doesn't that seem late?
The day before leaving, the Meyers wanted to go over Conner Pass. Remember that Mike and Rob? It was a wonderful day with a lot of photo ops. I had never been to Brandon's Point--closest area to Canada on this Penisula--Newfoundland to be exact. It was a very narrow road with sheep to spare and great vistas. And it was also the most heavily traveled. We could not believe all of the cars. There was a couple from the Netherlands and they did not speak English and of couse we could not communicate in their native language so sign language it was. Not too bad if I do say so. We found, can you believe, Murphy's Bar on our way back. Mr. Murphy used to work in Boston and his son lives there now. When Murphy SR.'s father died, he moved back to keep the family business going. The establishment and home are made of such old brick that it looks like stone from the weathering. Been in business since mid 1800's. The view was incredible. The business mostly confinded to summer visitors. The connor pass takes hardy travelers only since some portions are only single car width and it is difficult to see what cars may be coming the other way, Castle Gregory was the next town we visited, another summer tourist area. Nothing was open at all except one pub that did not sell food.
Last meal, thanks Monte and Pat, was at the Bemmer Hotel. More high class than some pubs. Wonderful lamb shank, reduced sauce and mash, pork chops and chicken were eaten in silence. It was good and we were hungry. Then we went to the opening of the new bar in town. We actually recognized the owners. When we walked in the couple from RI had the cat bird seat and they were the official photographers of the event. It is really easy to fit in in Dingle. Bill, unfortunately, had an asthma attack from the varnish and other newly finished bits at the pub. He had a horrible night. When Pat and I were walking around town earlier, we peeked in and thought it might be a HGTV show. Nothings was finished, at 4 but by 8 p.m. it was opened and filled. I suspect that some people are still there trying to release themselves from the newly varnished seats.
We left at 6 a.m. to take the Meyers to Shannon to catch their plane back to Pittsburgh. It was a great week--thanks for sharing our adventure, We got there with plenty of time, we dropped them off and had our breakfast before heading home to Dingle. Now naps will begin. We will have a lazy weekend as we are going to Dublin on Monday and must catch the 7:15 am bus to Tralee to get the train. The train was 22 Euros for both of us. What a bargain.
Pray that this fine spring weather continues.
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Inch Beach and Slea Head Drive
Yesterday in the drizzle or damp weather we drove about 30 miles to Inch Beach. It is the biggest and best beach in the West of Ireland. In the States if one was approaching a major tourist area, one would find signs, food establishments and motels. Here, we turned a corner and went down a hill of a grade of 10 degrees and there was the beach on our right. It is approximately 10 K long and the tide was out and the beach was about 400 meters wide. The overcast day made it look monochromatic from the mountains to the water, Dramatic. People in Dingle have told us they teach their children to drive on the beach. I do not understand that because the roads here are about 10 feet wide so learning to drive on that beach seems like a waste of time.'
Today was warm and sunny and we went around the Slea Head drive. Monte and Pat loved it as much as we did. Not one bus the entire day which surprised us. At one turn, overlooking the 3 sisters we stopped and an Irish couple who were walking talked with us. The husband is a tour guide and he gave some off-the beaten path places to visit on the road. No words do this drive justice. When I post photos then you will see, especially today's trip.
Cooking freshly caught Dingle fish for dinner., Bye for now.
Today was warm and sunny and we went around the Slea Head drive. Monte and Pat loved it as much as we did. Not one bus the entire day which surprised us. At one turn, overlooking the 3 sisters we stopped and an Irish couple who were walking talked with us. The husband is a tour guide and he gave some off-the beaten path places to visit on the road. No words do this drive justice. When I post photos then you will see, especially today's trip.
Cooking freshly caught Dingle fish for dinner., Bye for now.
Monday, March 21, 2011
Meet and Greet
Last night we arrived at the Marina Inn one hour to the start of the session. We sat at the bar, had dinner and by the time it started we couldn't move. The Inn was packed. Everyone had to get their drinks by standing next to us. There is a group of 47 professionals from the Mid-west who will play at one of the other bars tonight. We met an ex-military man who played in the session. He and his wife have lived here for a year but missing thier children,, they will return home soon. We met the couple staying at the Garvey's B&B, they were from San Diego. And of course many from Dingle. It was a fun evening.
Our friends are more adventurous than us, they walked along the narrow road then along the cliff. They got great photos of the Ocean and the rocky cliffs. It was foggy most of yesterday. But today we are heading out exploring some of back roads.
Our friends are more adventurous than us, they walked along the narrow road then along the cliff. They got great photos of the Ocean and the rocky cliffs. It was foggy most of yesterday. But today we are heading out exploring some of back roads.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Dreaming The Quiet Man
Outstanding evening at the capacity crowd Phoenix Theater for the Dingle Film Festival showing. The standing room only crowd of 300 or so welcomed Marureen O'hara with great cheers. Before her introduction, there was a 5 min montage of her films. The background music was Irish reels and jigs. Before long the entire audience was clapping in rhythm with the music. Maureen then walked out and looked fabulous. You would certainly recognize her. She was suppose to talk for 5 minutes or so and completely took over the interview and talked for 45 minutes. The hosts had to shut her down because of the party that was being planned after the movie. She was great and her voice was as pure and strong as we remember from the movies. It was a fun night and the movie was interesting. We did not go to the after party as it was nearing midnight. We had a pint and drove back to the house and didn't get to bed until 2 a.m. I do not know how Maureen at 90 keeps these hours. She did stay for the movie and the party.
We had dinner at the Benner Hotel before the show. Good food. We also shared a pint with a couple from West Virginia (Dick and Kathy) who had flown over with the Meyers. We will meet up again with them at the session tonight., .
Pat and I went into some of my favorite shops yesterday afternoon. The folks are getting used to me coming in, looking things over and then not buying anything. There is one local artist who has captured in watercolor the feel of the Peninsula. I just can't make up my mind which one to buy. I may have to get more than one.
All the meals have been good. Bill and Pat enjoyed a seafood chowder filled with crabs and fish. Bill started to lick the bowl but I held him back. We were told of the secret parking place behind Murphy's a few days ago in case we ever needed it, Last night we needed it and it was perfect. Huge DO NOT ENTER, PRIVATE PROERTY and various gaelic signs plus fences surrounded our parking area. Tony, the bartender said it was the perfect spot for the car but we had to leave the keys with him. He was only joking.
Starting our day now in the mist.
We had dinner at the Benner Hotel before the show. Good food. We also shared a pint with a couple from West Virginia (Dick and Kathy) who had flown over with the Meyers. We will meet up again with them at the session tonight., .
Pat and I went into some of my favorite shops yesterday afternoon. The folks are getting used to me coming in, looking things over and then not buying anything. There is one local artist who has captured in watercolor the feel of the Peninsula. I just can't make up my mind which one to buy. I may have to get more than one.
All the meals have been good. Bill and Pat enjoyed a seafood chowder filled with crabs and fish. Bill started to lick the bowl but I held him back. We were told of the secret parking place behind Murphy's a few days ago in case we ever needed it, Last night we needed it and it was perfect. Huge DO NOT ENTER, PRIVATE PROERTY and various gaelic signs plus fences surrounded our parking area. Tony, the bartender said it was the perfect spot for the car but we had to leave the keys with him. He was only joking.
Starting our day now in the mist.
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